Saturday, September 18, 2010

Colombia

For me, Cartagena is like one of those two-faced friends you can never really get your head around. On one side, it is a truly romantic city, at night a beautiful ambiance is in the air. On the other, however, you can't walk two steps outside your hostel without being offered cocaine at least seven times. Most of these 'people' are creepy, deranaged looking criminals. I never once felt 100% safe at night time, and actually have no photos of this city as I was too scared to even take my camera out with me.

I did however manage to have quite a good time out and about on the town bumping booties on the dancefloor with the locals. You have to see it to understand how hilarious their 'dancing' is. Pretty sure most of the guys should be wearing a condom it gets that hot and heavy, the local ladies will stop at no lengths to show their immense affection, and then straight after the 'dance' sit on couches at opposite ends of the club as if nothing out of the ordinary had happened. Just sitting down and watching the free sex shows was entertaining enough, and probably (sadly) my main highlight from Cartagena.

Next stop, was Taganga. We arrived on what must have been smack bang in the middle of some local celebration. It was a Sunday evening and there were hundreds of people lining the streets, on the beach and even swimming. Best way to be welcomed to a new place! Taganga had great local vibes, and wasn't too touristy, which was nice for a change. We stayed at a hotel right on the beach, but didn't actually go swimming once... what great travellers we are.

Taganga Beach

On my third day there, the day before Ben Troy and I started the Lost City Trek, I got a bad case of food poisoning. The next day I woke up feeling better so thought I'd be fine to do the trek... I could not have been more wrong. Ciudad Perdida, Spanish for 'Lost City,' was only discovered in 1972, and is a five day trek through jungle to discover the mysterious lost city, a great pre- Columbian city of the Tayronas. The trek was certainly no walk in the park, and was on most occasions rather exhausting, but well worth the challenge.

The jungle reminded me of a beautiful version of Jurassic Park. It was hot, humid, and often raining, but for most of us that made it all the more enjoyable. We had to cross numerous fresh rivers, and got to hike past Indigenous villages, as many local tribes live in huts the jungle still. We only walked 4 hours on average a day, and slept in hammocks under huts of a night time. It was such a great feeling camping out in the jungle like that, and certainly something I won't ever forget. These kind of experiences are the ones that shape your trip, and make it a whole lot more interesting.

The food was a major highlight, but unfortunately due to my stomach bug that just would not pass, I couldn't keep anything down. Troy was also sick, but out the other end - so Ben found himself feeling like Healthy Harold next to his amigos 'Spewy' and 'Pooey.' After three days I was too weak and in so much pain we were forced to turn back. Ben and Troy, who looked after me like brothers, were kind enough to accompany me back to Taganga, unfortunately earlier than expected.

The rivers turned a beautiful orange because of all the rain!


Very Jurassic Park like

Local Indian tribes

The huts they lived in

When you travel with people for long enough, your friendship becomes so strong you honestly become a family. Day in day out: eating, sleeping, partying, and doing daily activities together; there isn't much you don't know about each other. It also helps you find out a lot more about yourself. When I first started this trip, I think I was trying very hard to "work out who I am," what I like, etc etc. I think I am at a point now where I understand myself a lot better. Although I'm definitely at a point where, I think the best way to put it is, I am still very much growing into myself.

I've still got so much to learn, but I'm enjoying it every step of the way. The more you challenge yourself and embark on various adventures, the more you begin to learn and understand. This is one of my favourite parts of travelling. I have grown up and into myself so much in the past few months it's not even funny. My perspective on what is most important in life has been completely altered. But the best part is that there is still so much more to come, and I am finally learning how to appreciate the world and everything it has to offer me all the more.

Friday, September 3, 2010

Sailing the High Seas

Travel. It makes life more meaningful.

It seems the story of my life has only just begun. With a new destination every week and overwhelming adventures always around the corner, my chapters may be small - but by god are they poignant. So much so I find it hard to believe that the next chapter could ever live up to the previous one... Somehow, so far, I am yet to be let down. Travelling without any plans whatsoever is definitely the way to do it. It means you are open to everything and anything that life throws your way. Your life becomes limitless, the way it should be.

For me, this was sailing to Colombia from Panama. With the choice of a flight for $200, or five days of sailing the Caribbean and visiting the Sand Blas islands for just double the price, it was not a hard decision to make. I am not sure if my words can some up how breathtaking this journey was, but i'll give it a go. Lucky pictures help speak many thousand words.

The only bad thing about the boat trip, Never Smile was on board. An American late 20-something social retard who didn't drink alcohol and had the sense of humour of a five year old... hence the nickname. We'd met him previously in Utilia, he happened to be in my diving group. So as everyone has experienced at least once in their lives, I had exhausted all avenues of pointless conversation with him. He was lucky enough to become the first person on my trip that I took a well deserved disliking to.

We had to get an hour long cab to where the boat was docked, and somehow Mitch Troy and Ben were together in one, and I ended up with Never Smile and Trent - who had flown down from Canada after a bad breakup. Next to Never Smile, he became the second, and so far, final person I have felt hostility towards on this trip. Again, definitely well deserved - if you keep following this blog you'll find out why... a rather interesting story.

Michel and Cecil, a lovely french couple, were our captain and crew for the five day sailing adventure. Sailing the Caribbean for a rather generous living, they've definitely got their lives sorted out. In total, we spent three days exploring the San Blas islands, and then it was 40 hours straight sailing the open seas to arrive in Cartagena, Colombia.

Cecil and Michel, completely and utterly in love.
The San Blas islands is an archipelago of nearly 400 islands, of which only about 50 are inhabited, mostly by the Kuna Indians. There are honestly no words to describe how beautiful the San Blas islands are. They are an unspoiled paradise, which became our playground for three days. Having the boat was the best part, we could just jump into the glorious ocean anytime we felt like it, go snorkeling, fishing, or swim over and just explore the surrounding islands. What a life!
A guy from the Kuna tribes trying to sell us this shell. Legend.
The Kuna people would often approach the boat to try and sell us things, or sometimes come over just for a chat. We did buy some fresh lobsters at one point, something ridiculous like 5 for $30. At one point, a little albino boy approached the boat, just to say hello. It was a strange sight at first, seeing a white boy rowing towards us, and we all turned to Michel and Cecil for an explanation. We were all saddened to learn that often the Kuna tribes don't exactly live in harmony, and some are inbred. This poor little boy, and one of his sisters, are both albinos.
This is easily the saddest picture I have ever taken. This boy was covered head to toe in scabs and blisters, a result for the Caribbeans harsh sun. Obviously living off the land means the Kuna tribes have no access to doctors or any kind of medication. It also means they have a hard time hiding from the sun. What a painful life this boy must live, and many others as well. It's not all paradise in the Caribbean. My heart really went out to this boy.
Another perfect Caribbean Sunset
The rest of what we explored of the Caribbean, however, was simply awe-inspiring. Unfortunately, their wasn't enough wind to sail for most of the time, but that didn't stop us from lying on the bow of the boat, enjoying the breeze, soaking up the sun, and simply living the life.

Lieutenant Dan you ain't got no legs

On our last day in the San Blas, we swam over to an uninhabited island, where we were to make a fire and have dinner - fresh fish - that evening. We spent the afternoon drinking rum, straight from the bottle of course, and trying our hardest to absorb the beauty of this magical land. Looking back on the photos, I can't help but smile to remember how happy we were. It's one of those things you are lucky to do once in your life, and I can't explain how much this part of the trip impacted on me. There are so many parts of this world that will bring you such immense satisfaction, delirium, and pure exhilaration. It makes your heart beat faster, and it makes you love life a hell of a lot more. It also comes along with one of those smiles that is so big and lasts for so long that your face hurts from the pleasure. An easy price to pay if you ask me.

Drinking rum in the Caribbean, pirate style.

RIOT squad.

Mitch taking a stroll. Oh so perfect.

After our three days spent in my version of Heaven, it was 40hrs straight sailing to Colombia, and for me that meant almost 40hrs in bed. The seas were rough, and there was a pretty big storm. In the end, we made it, to the oh-so different world of Colombia. A different kind of excitement was rushing through my veins. A new chapter had begun and I couldn't wait to delve straight into it.

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Panama City

Having heard good things about Panama City, we were excited to back to the mainland, back to reality. Promoted as Central America's 'Party Captial,' it felt more like Panama City was the cosmopolitan capital of Central. Sporting a stifling skyline of highrise buildings, anyone could be fooled to believe we were back in Sydney or somewhere alike.

Luke James and I were drawn to Casco Viejo, a bedraggled yet gorgeous neighborhood, made up of historic buildings and cobbled streets - just a touch more interesting than the steel towers that lay across the ocean Luna's Castle, old mansion turned hostel, was our home, or I really should say playground, for the week we were stationed here. Looking off the balcony over the Pacific Ocean, this hostel had everything, and I mean everything, to offer.

Mitch stoked upon finding the movie room

Theatre aside, this four level backpackers paradise accommodated over a hundred people, had free breakfast, four chill out rooms (all featuring guitars which got regular workouts), and most importantly, a downstairs gorgeous bar and deck area that was open until 3am. Obviously, we didn't have much reason to leave this hostel... except of course to visit our good old friend McDonalds. A ritual almost all backpackers have when visiting a city.

On one occasion when Mitch and I were having a lengthy lunch in the air conditioned heaven of Maccas, we started talking to a middle aged Jamaican guy, Rick. He spoke perfect English (and French as well!) and had a cast on his right leg up to his thigh. He told he was on holidays in Panama, and just a week ago had been hit by a car and broke his leg badly. Lying on the ground, waiting for help, he received exactly the opposite. Locals robbed him of almost everything -shoes, wallet, hat, shirt, and most importantly, his passport. When police came by and he tried to call out for help, they just assumed he was another bothersome homeless drunk, and left him lying on the ground, thinking about what a wayward world this really is. Rick became a good friend of ours, and visited us at our hostel on many occasions while he waited around pointlessly in Panama for an emergency passport.

Stories like this really do get you thinking... would something like that happen in Australia? Of course not. We are so blessed to live in such an amazing land, where everybody - be it neighbour, colleague, friend, family - will always have your back. It's crazy to think that such antics like this happen all over the world, and how many heartless people we live amongst. Travelling really does open your eyes, and allow you to take off those rose coloured glasses, and sometimes see the world basked in all it's true grotesqueness.

Mind you, it's not all bad. Actually, most of what you discover over here opens your eyes to a kaleidoscopic world that's completely hard to comprehend, and gets your thoughts all tangled up in some kind of fuzzy web.. It makes you wake up, and see the world in a different light, and take problems, dilemmas, opportunities as you would have never done so before. Seeing the world helps you see yourself, right through that mirror and deep into your soul. It definitely helps you to understand or work out the kind of person you want to be. Definitely not the kind who'd steal from someone in trouble. Or steal from anyone for that matter.

Done and dusted with Panama City after a few wild nights out, and many days in the movie room, it was time to prepare for our trip to Colombia... To fly or to sail, that was the question. $400 or thereabouts got you four days frolicking around the San Blas islands on a yacht, and eventually delivers you to the unknown land of South America, Cartagena in Colombia to be precise. With activities and meals all inclusive, it wasn't a hard choice to jump on that boat (ha ha, pun intended) for a magical trip across the Caribbean. Wouldn't have it any other way. Wait til you hear all about it, promise you'll either die from jealously, or book a flight to Panama City as soon as your working day's over... sucker. xxx